Aquanaut by Patek Philippe
Published on Thursday 25th of November 2021
When the Aquanaut watch was launched, back in 1997, it created a tremendous amount of interest because of its unexpected design and younger modern look. The Aquanaut timepiece started off with only two models, with a run of only 1000 pieces of each design. The stainless model 5060A and the 18ct yellow gold model 5060J were the two watches that created this interest in the beginning. The main difference on the Aquanaut styling was the introduction of a rubber strap to their watch range, which was a first for Patek Philippe. Patek named this composite strap “Tropical” and the strap is manufactured to resist saltwater, ultraviolet deterioration and bacteria. The Aquanaut case design is a rounded octagon shape which is inspired by Patek’s earlier Nautilus model. Inside the case is Patek’s own self-winding movement, calibre 324 SC. Having 217 parts, 29 jewels and a power reserve of 44 hours it compares with many of the other watches by Patek Philippe. The movement also features a 21ct yellow gold central rotor with the silicon based Gyromax balance and balance spring. The other unique feature on the Aquanaut is its embossed guillche dials which mirrors the design within the Tropical strap.
The dials are available in black, blue, green and brown with luminous hour markings and hands and also oversized Arabic numerals. Another first for this timepiece was having a sapphire glass model with a water resistancey of 120 meters. This shows how good Patek Philippe are at inventing and producing industry leading technology. The Aquanaut range also features the first model with a screw down crown aiding this model to be water resistant to the 120 meters and make it truly a’ use in water’ watch.
The ‘Tropical’ strap has a folding deployment fold over style clasp with the Calatrava cross logo embossed in the center. The Calatrava cross logo is also featured on the end of all the crowns in the Aquanaut watch series. There are currently 15 models in the Aquanaut range, available in either stainless steel, 18ct white gold or 18ct rose gold and there have only been a few changes from the original design. Patek have added a stainless-steel bracelet model, altered the dial and the “tropical” strap now fits snug to the case. The dial has been altered by having a less embossed design and the number 3 has been taken away so not quite mirroring the strap design as before. Most of these changes happened in 2007 (Aquanaut’s ten-year anniversary) and that was when Patek increased the size of case to 40mm from 38mm.
Within the current range is the Aquanaut Travel Time model 5164R, featuring a complication of dual time zone, local and home day and night indicators and local date by a hand pointer. The Aquanaut timepieces are another range that Patek Philippe have crafted to the highest standards and will continue to be one of their bestselling watches.